posts: 335790
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 335790 | 20655 | The Death of Surfing | 49 | SoftScrambledSkeggs | Jan 21, 2025 | 2025-01-21T12:08:07-0500 | I surf alone in LA regularly within 5 miles of millions of people, and have had some A+ sessions (on a "eh that was fun!" curve). I have boards that make it fun, and treat it like the gym, quantity over (but not always) quantity. I also surf Malibu regularly, it's abject chaos, but there's 10 people I don't burn, and the rest are nameless, faceless "They Live"-esque drones that don't exist until they do. I've been injured, sent people in, fucked up and burned the wrong person, and had some of the best days of my life with only 400 of my closest friends alongside. It's a mosh pit, but I don't ride shit I care about, tell people (politely, with a sprinkling of asshole) when they err or are oblivious. I'll also try and help if I see someone blowing it, paddling with poor form, etc. I'm aware of my position, positively and negatively, and exploit it, and try not to be a dick about it. Some days I fail. But that which tips the scales toward gratitude is this: I still surf. Not own a surfboard, not like surfing, not "still get out there a couple times a year". In the immortal words of MC Nay Nay, "I sURf!". Picture everyone you know who you've surfed with, and now catalog who is still about it… I'm not the best but I'm committed, and that fact affords me an equilibrium that no amount of wavestorm fuckery, spot-blowing microblogging, or "this is my job" pro-surfer jockiness can shake. I'd write more but I heard on TikTok Rincon's firing and there's only 200 people out… sounds like my kinda party… |