posts: 298267
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 298267 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 94 | Moustache Lou | Nov 26, 2023 | 2023-11-26T15:27:35-0500 | Recently at Tourmaline I took off right (backside for me) on a set wave and did a bit of a backside rail grab with my right hand trailing in the face of the wave… was I ripping? Decidedly not, I just haven’t gotten the hang of surfing backside back yet (I’m getting better though!)… Sure seemed to impress the guy on the Wavestorm paddling out though (“That was awesome!”) so maybe in some sense I WAS ‘ripping’ And just the other day at the Shores I inadvertently dropped in on an older lady on an SUP…. I kicked out (fairly gracefully, I think) the instant I saw her behind me, and she rode the wave all the way in to the shorebreak…. When she paddled back out I apologized and fully expected to get an earful from her (she seemed to be well-known in the water, not just some rando), but she just said, “No worries, and besides you seem to know what you’re doing… you know how it can get out here.” That and a few fun lefts were as close as I needed to feel like I was (by my personal standards) ‘ripping’. |