posts: 293777
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
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| 293777 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 84 | CaptJAQ | Oct 4, 2023 | 2023-10-04T17:55:12-0400 | Just turned 60, have been surfing 47 years of that. I don't know if I've ever ripped. Definitely charge, though. I like to catch big waves, and flow nicely on what the wave gives me. My path was a little odd. Started on a 6'4" single-fin winger swallow tail. (Like everyone else rode in 1976.) I was small, so that board floated me well. I progressed through twins, quads, twinzers, have a 7'6" thruster "gun", for rhino chasing. But I've always loved longboarding. I was gifted a 10'0" vintage Weber Performer by a friend's family who wanted it out of their garage! After that day, it was my primary board, even though I rode all the others. It helped that I was surfing mostly in Cape May County, NJ where most of the breaks are good for a longboard. I also had a 7'6" mini-tanker. In 1995 I decided to retire the Weber, and get a HPLB. A 10'0" Country Surfboards custom. That thing rips, and can handle any size surf, due to lots of rocker. It pushes a bit of water when the surf is small, but OMG is it a dream in overhead surf! Now I live near DC, and still surf from Ocean County NJ all the way down to the Outer Banks. So, here we are in 2023, and I'm about to take delivery of an Epoxy 9'6" Asym Custom InTheEye shaped by Scott Busbey. The best way to get a great board is to order a custom from a shaper who knows what conditions you like to ride, how you like to surf, and is familiar with the surf you'll be riding. I'm ready for my next chapter in my surfing life, expecting to be inspired by a lighter weight board with some fun features. Will I rip on it? IDK. As long as my surfing makes me smile, and maybe brings a smile onto the faces of others in the lineup, that's awesome. |