posts: 292844
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
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| 292844 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 82 | xjaywalker | Sep 25, 2023 | 2023-09-24T22:06:16-0400 | shredsickgnar said: As I grow in my surfing adventure, I agree with what some of you have said about board control. When I see some with perfect board control, wave knowledge and smooth style; I consider that ripping now too. It doesn't necessarily have to be radical surfing. Some 120lb kid can blast an air reverse and hop and flail around when doing it but is that really ripping? I mean well yeah it probably is. I can't do it. But I have a growing respect for someone that clearly has put in the time to control their board and place it in the correct parts of the wave and can link some turns together(or walk around on it). They don't have to be difficult turns or throw a ton of spray, just nice turns on the right part of the wave. I think that kind of surfing can be done at any age. Click to expand... Agreed. At the age of 70 and having surfed for over 50 years, I am happy just paddling g out. And stoked for when younger kids and young ladies enjoy the waves around me. And I woot and cheer them on when they catch a good wave and have a big smile. And my definition of "ripping" has changed. You described it above. It's a plus for me to still paddle into a 2-4 ft wave at DOHO or Sano, and make a few turns and glide down the line. And that's puts a smile on my face. And grateful I have been given the opportunity to enjoy this lifestyle for all these years... |