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289760 16537 Learning to accept that you don't rip 40 JTS Aug 15, 2023 2023-08-15T08:25:26-0400 Rip ? Naaah . I ve been surfing a long time, consider myself a competent and solid surfer- but not a ripper As I close in on 65, I usually shy away from the prime peak if I have to compete with aggro Alpha males half my age. If I get 3 or 4 good waves I’m happy. I’ve got friends I surf with that go back 20 or 30 years-I enjoy the banter in the parking lot and the lineup as much as the surf I’ve accepted that I don’t rip, as long as I can keep surfing! “The older I get , the better I was” ;-)
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