posts: 289749
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
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| 289749 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 36 | mightyrime | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-14T23:40:59-0400 | mightyrime said: This thread is really reflecting something i have been thinking a lot about lately, especially as i am approaching the age of 50. I want to rip, and i try to rip, and at times i really feel like i am ripping. For me ripping is a personal thing. Of course i have some ego as we all do, and we all crave acceptance and fan fare, but ultimately i am setting my personal standard for what ripping is for me. For me the definition of ripping is total control in almost any condition. Then i think what does this mean... start with a bell curve. As much as i like the surf super heroes like Torren Martyn, Ryan Burch, Mickey Feb...etc... that crew of super stars are beyond the rip so they get chopped from the top. And brand new beginners get taken out of the equation at the bottom. With whats left are the surfers i generally see day to day. I am lucky that i live in an area that once or twice a week i am sharing the lineup with a pro or highly ranked amateur, as well as some ex pros, and locals who truly rip. The waves are good here but not perfect everyday so it allows me to witness very high end surfing on less than spectacular waves. The surfers who really stand out to me are the ones who are consistent in all conditions. Their take offs, turns, style, usage of the wave they are given are always top notch, and in total control. You can even tell in the way they control their kick out if the wave is not working. Some of them are short boarders with heavy spray throwing turns, some midlength guys with flow, and some loggers and even some hi-pro longboard guys. The best totally control their chosen vessel. The best just totally own it on every wave. And the next part of the equation is age. With most of the real rippers i see daily i am going to say less than 10% of them look over 40 years old. So i focus on the over 40 crowd more to set my bar. Most of the over 40 crew who rips might not be the most explosive but they own it the hardest. You can just see the years of experience and dedication in the way they work the wave. I could go on for ever... But i am trying to rip, I am lucky my life allows me to surf at least 4 days a week to continue my personal rip quest I am trying to work on consistency I am honing in the micro movements I am stretching I am trying to eat healthy I guess i am still chasing it And i am enjoying it sooo much! SOMEDAY I MIGHT RIP!!! YEEEEEEW! so i have not accepted it quite yet Click to expand... i probably could have skipped the essay and just said " no i have not fully accepted it yet" |