posts: 289068
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 289068 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 19 | Old Dude | Aug 8, 2023 | 2023-08-08T06:18:29-0400 | The bitter truth is, I never ripped and I never will rip, but… … I started surfing at age of 40. I surf only on vacation. In a very good year I go surfing for 4-5 weeks, thereoff 3 weeks in summer, with a zero wave potential of 3-5 days and sometimes knee-high for rest of it. And now I’m turning 60, sit outside (up to chest or head high) in the middle of the pack, get some waves, I’m definitely not the best in the line-up, but not the worst too, I’m accepted by all as a decent surfer, especially by the intermediate ladies and even by some locals, and after each surf my smile goes from the left to the right ear |