posts: 289014
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 289014 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 14 | Chilly Willy | Aug 7, 2023 | 2023-08-07T14:29:58-0400 | Ha! Welcome to the forum, Warchild. All very valid points, both amusing and humbling to read. I think for mere mortals, whether or not you rip is not a constant but an everchanging status. This was confirmed to me yesterday when I got a text from a buddy about his own surfing that made me laugh: "I kinda stink now". Even still, there's probably also someone watching on the beach who sees him surf and thinks he rips. For me, all that other stuff -- boards, fins, equipment changes, videos (I'm one of those guys that enjoys getting footage of myself and watching it back later) -- is really just part of the fun. Nerding out on that stuff lets me extend my enjoyment of surfing beyond the beach. |