posts: 102773
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 102773 | 486 | How was your surf today?....share your stoke! | 2632 | Driftwood | Sep 3, 2016 | 2016-09-03T05:30:59-0400 | Third fun session in a week today. Last Tuesday was excellent: shoulder high, glassy and uncrowded. Thursday was bigger, heavy current, but very fun long lefts and just three of us on a peak. Then today, get to the beach in the fog, looking at a bunch of close-out nearly shorebreak. Spoke to a friend who was heading home a bit disgusted after two hours of nada (got there late today, a rare occurance!). Paddled out, confirmed his suspicion, went in after twenty minutes and spoke with a buddy. Decdided to paddle way out to a funny looking sort of wave that just peaked up and then quickly dissapeared. More for the paddle than anything else since it was nice and glassy. Sun came out, peak started holding on the super low tide, long walls that reformed several times without really breaking started coming through regularly. Funny and fun waves, carving big turns on waves that went towards the beach without a lot of lateral, down the line surfing. Carve, back into the peak, carve or roundhouse, back into the peak... Got a bunch of these for an hour until others figured we were faving too much fun and came out and we split. Nice morning. |