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100794 486 How was your surf today?....share your stoke! 2616 Nilus Aug 4, 2016 2016-08-04T11:54:26-0400 I've been logging some time on the Skip Eagle over the last month, but this morning I found a new gear at C Street ... I had already grabbed a bunch of glassy waist to chest waves (largely in the vicinity of the fairgrounds farther out than everyone else in that stretch). Then, with the tide filling in and a little more of the new south swell showing, I found myself paddling out to a nice line beyond me. It took a few more strokes to get into, which should have told me something, and as I was about to drop in, I realized I was pretty late and it was getting relatively steep. Now I'm always a little tentative with this board because it's big, flat, and unforgiving. I am just an average surfer, so I also feel super conspicuous on a Skipper ... like somehow I have to continually earn my right to ride it. All of this is going through my head in the two seconds I'm paddling. Did I mention that the board is the brightest shade of yellow you've ever seen, and that I also happen to be wearing my Matuse suit with a yellow stripe across the chest? So yeah, pretty much everyone sitting farther in is watching this transpire unless they're fricking blind. But somehow, as I drop in really late, the rail just hooks up and the board accelerates like crazy across the face. People are making noise as I scream by. The wave is feathering above me the whole way. And the eagle just keeps going faster and faster, barely staying ahead of the whitewater. Later, a guy said "that wave was WAY overhead." If true, it was substantially bigger than anything else I saw before or after. One of those weird sneakers. Anyway, I now know what it's like to stand on the wing of an airplane. And I want to do it again.
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